The Border of Campione d’Italia

Living in Campione d’Italia we are often amused by the confusion our visitors experience in keeping track where we are at any given moment – in Italy or in Switzerland.

What’s the big deal about Campione d’Italia? Click here for some background.

Campione is an Italian enclave wholly within Switzerland. That statement seems to be incorrect. According to the excellent Web Site http://campione.enclaves.org it is an Italian exclave within Switzerland! Please visit the Web Site for more information.

Campionesi walk or drive daily past markers that indicate the border between Bissone in Switzerland and Campione in Italy. When you walk the footpaths in the mountain behind Campione you often encounter such a marker indicating the border between Arogno in Switzerland and Campione in Italy.

When I came across the Web Site mentioned above early in 2005, I noticed that the information, at that time, was incomplete. I thought it should be a fun project to visit each marker and photograph it during weekends. During August and the beginning of September 2005 my wife Catrien and I did just that. It was much more of a challenge than we ever anticipated!

Most markers are accessible from well worn and maintained footpaths. However, there are many footpaths behind Campione! Furthermore, it was high summer and humid with thick foliage which made it very difficult to see a marker from a distance. The thick foliage made the possibility to record co-ordinates with my GPS impossible. Most markers have a pole that was painted a bright red some years back to make it easier to spot. Some markers were obviously not visited in decades and did not get painted. Number 3 does not even have a pole. Number 7A had one but some giant broke, yes broke, it off! We are talking 5mm steel in a T format. It was not cut off as the picture will show.

Most markers are dated either 1901 or 1921. According to campione.enclaves.org this border was defined in “Übereinkunft vom 5. Oktober 1861 zwischen der Schweiz und Italien betreffend Festlegung der Grenze zwishen der Lombardei und dem Kanton Tessin an einigen Orten, wo dieselbe streitig ist” My German is rather rudimentary and I had to make use of Altavista’s translation service to decipher the Elfter Anstand supplied by campione.enclave.org. It mentions old markers and new markers. Marker number 11 seems to be dated 1896. Marker numbers 2 and 10 are mentioned in the Elfter Anstand of 1861. This document mentions only 14 markers. Today there are 17 main markers, but when you include all the markers planted, you should find at least 29 markers! We are not absolutely sure that we found all the markers. We could not find number 1 and we only saw the pole marking number 2. We were able to photograph the remaining 27 markers.

Our first attempt went fairly well, and we documented all the markers from number 10 to 14. Numbers 15 to 17 are quite near our apartment and didn’t call for a special expedition!

The next outing harvested all markers from number 6 to 9A, with a sighting of number 5 and, as a bonus, the elusive chamois of the Alps!

The third outing was most frustrating. We searched every possible route, but harvested only numbers 4 and 5. There is no footpath passing close to number 5 and I had to climb on hands and knees to get there! The problem is that the Swiss side, which is the only side to give you access to these markers, is cultivated land right to the border with some very menacing ‘private property’ signs. I almost thought I was back in South Africa when I heard gunshots and I was convinced they were aimed at us! It turned out to be carbide guns that the farmer uses to scare off birds lusting for his voluptuous crop of ripe Merlot grapes.

Our forth attempt almost ended in frustration. We could actually see number 2B from a public side road but there was no way to get down to it. We then went in search for number 3. This time it was easy because the gate to the private property was standing open and there was nobody around. We documented number 3 and 2C. We could not find a path down to 2B but as we were leaving my eye caught a possible route. Difficult to reach but I documented number 2B!

One Sunday afternoon we went for a short walk to the start of the lower footpath from Campione to Bissone. Catrien walked to the point where the brook is channeled to run underground at the end of the dead-end road. When she called: “Here’s a marker”, I was sure she’s joking. But sure enough, there it was. Number 14A. The arrow down to the Arch of Campione looked a bit skew to me and then we saw another marker on the other side of the road. Number 14B.

On our last attempt Catrien was the one who first spotted number 2A. I expected it a bit more to the north and was looking for a way down the cliff on that side when she called that she found it. At Caprino we went down the ancient path that leaves Caprino but it is not maintained with signs warning that it is unsafe. However, we carried on until we found a spot where it was possible to get down to the brook. I crossed the brook that forms the border for the last sixty-five metres to the lake according to the Elfter Anstand. On the side of the brook opposite Caprino I found an ancient footpath shored up at times with dry stone walls. When I came to a footbridge that has obviously not been maintained for at least fifty years, I had to turn back. I could see the pole for Marker 2 but not Marker 1 or its pole.

We’ll try again in spring when the foliage is not so dense.

In spite of some serious photo resizing the document with the photos was still almost 20MB! I had to cut it into 4 parts to be able to upload it to my Web Site host. You can download each part below:

Kind regards.

Philip and Catrien de Bruin

Update April 2006:

Soon after the above report was published, I was contacted by Mats, the author of campione.enclaves.org. He pointed me to a page on the Web site of Global Geografia, which gave more detailed information regarding the border markers between Campione and Switzerland. Jesper of Denmark contacted me and gave me some pointers regarding marker number 1. He also confirmed that there is a marker number 0!

Mats sent me some photos of the old marker number 16 and I took photos from more or less the same positions of the new marker 16.

We first searched for the two reference markers on the other side of the lake, numbers 17(R) and 0(R). On a clear day we were able to see 17(R) through binoculars from Campione. It can also be seen from the road between Melide and Paradiso if you know where to look. However, it is on Swiss Rail property and not accessible. We’ll have to hire a boat to get close enough for a photo. So far we were unsuccessful in spotting number 0(R). We should be able to find it from a boat.

We then went to look for numbers 14C and 14D. After a long search Catrien spotted number 14C in a private garden. Nobody was home. The neighbours informed us that the owner passed away recently. The fence was neglected and down in places, so I went in and documented 14C. Number 14D is supposed to be a brass plaque like number 14A. We suspect that it is buried under branches and other organic matter cleared from the hillside and left at the bottom against the wall of a private property that seems to run next to the line of the projected border.

We then went in search of number 13B. If it wasn’t for Global Geografia’s description, we would never have found 13B. It hasn’t got a clearly visible pole and it is along a very faint footpath that is not used frequently.

On a clear Sunday morning, with spring in the air, we drove to Caprino which is the village bordering on Campione on the northern lakeside. It is amazing how easily we found our way down to Cavallino this time. The heavy foliage of summer obscured the way during our previous attempt and I tried to reach it by a more difficult route. Marker number 0 was easy to document, but number 1 was more difficult. It was easy to find, but the granite marker is at the bottom of the stream on the Swiss side. The stream was fast flowing and there was no way to get close to the marker down the shear granite cliff without mountaineering equipment. I did my best with the zoom and leaning far out over the stream with the marker pole as anchor!

We could not see the “ancient cross” cut into the Italian side of the cliff that Global Geografia talks about, but we could see a classical “I” for Italy cut into the cliff and painted red similar to the I on the cliff of marker number 10.

Getting to marker number 2 was a different story. The ancient footpath from Cavallino to Pugerna is not maintained or used. It really got dangerous at a certain point and Catrien had to wait for me where there were still space to stand around. The footpath eventually gets to the ancient bridge that I was not prepared to cross during my previous attempt. But long before you get there you need to start climbing to the “Mitra di San Ambrogio!” There is no footpath. At a certain point I decided to give up and go back, but as I started down I decided to try another climb away from the objective and round a huge rock. This brought me to a steeply climbing rocky ledge leading roughly to the marker. When I could see the marker, the only way up was through some young trees that offered secure handholds, but with thorny shrubs that succeeded in drawing blood as I climbed through them. When I got to the pole I had to sit down for a while to catch my breath. I was soaked in sweat, with sweat running over my glasses so that I couldn’t see to use the camera! When my breathing was almost back to normal I took off my T-shirt, wiped my glasses, and dried my head. Then I could look around. What a magnificent view! See the photo.

The photo of the marker pole number 2 from the Swiss side was easy. From the Italian side I had to hang over the cliff with the pole as anchor and it took several attempts to get a passable photo.

According to Global Geografia there is a marker cut onto the top of the 5m high “spuntone”, which is a mountain climbing term. I studied the ascent of the rock on the eastern side for a long time. I am not a mountaineer, but if I were 20 years younger I would probably have attempted it without climbing equipment. However, for a 62 year-old without any backup it would have been folly. I found an anchor attached to the rock on the western side of the marker pole with a stump of a 1cm thick cable still attached. This must have been the temporary “cable way” to transport that heavy marker pole and tools to the site.

With sadness I called it a day. Somebody else will have to document that “incisione su spuntone.”

The way down was easier. I knew which route to take, although I had to slide down on my backside several times!

We had to wait some time for another clear sunny day. I knew the route to number 6B and 7B, which we missed during our previous expedition, would mean a heavy climb along the footpaths to get to the top path. If it wasn’t for the clues found at Global Geografia’s site, we would have missed both markers again. Catrien spotted number 6B first. It was overgrown with moss and I had to clean it first. It is an incision in the rock similar to marker number 10, but without a pole. Number 7B would be hidden by foliage in summer and the marker pole is planted about 3m higher than the level of the footpath.

We were unable to spot any of the unnumbered markers. As mentioned before, we have not sighted numbers 0(R) nor 14D, but have a good idea where they should be. For photos regarding this update please click here.

Update August 2006:

On a beautiful day we rented a boat and went in search for reference marker 0(R). It appears to be impossible to get to it over land. We photographed it and also the reference marker 17(R). Both are on the Swiss side of Lake Lugano across from markers 0 and 17. For photos regarding this update please click here.

Background on Campione d’Italia

The Michelin Green Guide of Italy calls Campione a “colourful, smiling village”. That’s the way we experience it too.

“Campione d’Italia” means sample of Italy. It can also mean champion of Italy. Both meanings are appropriate!

Campione is an Italian enclave wholly inside the Italian speaking canton of Ticino in Switzerland on Lake Lugano. Politically it’s Italian, but practically residents operate as Swiss residents.

There is no border control other than the occasional road block by Swiss border police to check the documents of visitors in vehicles to and from Campione.

Campione is the back door into both the European Union and Switzerland. This fact offsets the rather expensive property prices and rentals. This is why we settled in Campione. As South African passport holders, Campione residence gives us access to all EU countries without having to have a Schengen visa. Furthermore, a Schengen visa still doesn’t give you year round access to EU countries.

There is one road for vehicles entering the village and one road out for vehicles leaving Campione. There are many footpaths in and out of Campione and also many mooring points for boats on the lake shore.

The Swiss ferry service on Lake Lugano stops at Campione and there is a bus service that links Campione and the two neighbouring Swiss villages, Bissone and Melide, with Lugano.

Campione has a Swiss postal code and an Italian postal code, but you rarely use the Italian code as post is then routed through the Italian system. Italian bureaucracy has improved tremendously since Italy joined the EU, but it still has a long way to go.

Your car registration is Swiss and so is your driver’s license. The telephone service is Swiss as well as the cable TV service. Your telephone number is listed in the Swiss telephone directory.

Only some municipal services, like electricity, are charged in Euro and it causes endless hassles to get it paid automatically through one of the two Italian banks in town.

Lugano is the third most important financial centre in Switzerland. All your proper banking is done at one of these Swiss banks with one bank, complete with ATM, conveniently next to the Swiss post office in Bissone.

There is no working filling station in Campione anymore. In Bissone there is a convenient Swiss filling station with car wash and grocery store selling fresh stock from one of the large grocers in Switzerland, Coop, and it is open from very early until very late at night every day.

There is virtually no crime in Campione. On a par with Switzerland. Young girls and old people can walk alone – even at night – something unheard of in the South African frame of reference. This cannot be said about the rest of Italy. Nearby Como, although beautiful, have standard Italian crime levels. Campione is heavily policed. More police officers than in Como. The reason for this is the Municipal Casino in town – only one of four in all Italy.

A huge new casino is being built designed by the brilliant Ticinese architect Mario Botta. His work can be seen in many cities. From Rotterdam to New York. And many buildings dotted all over Ticino.

The town is quiet except for weekends. Those terrible Vespas with the silencers removed that you encounter in all other Italian cities are not here. The Swiss Social Contract and authorities would just not tolerate it! At any given time, 70% of the inhabitants are not in Campione!

Over weekends the casino is heavily frequented and parking unavailable. We’ve never been in the casino. We don’t gamble. But except for weekends and the resulting search for parking space is doesn’t bother us. On the contrary, sponsored by the casino the municipality is able to maintain the most beautiful parks and piazze. Art exhibitions and classical music concerts are free.

You’ll notice numerous Smart cars – that’s the make of the car – in Campione with the casino’s livery painted on it. The casino makes these cars available to residents at two thirds of the price of a new Smart!

Campione is at the end of the road. So there’s no traffic passing through to the next town or towns.

There’s only one hotel in Campione, the newly renovated four stars Grand Hotel next to the casino. A more pleasant hotel, with a nice view, is the three stars Hotel Campione next to l’Arco – the entrance Arch of Campione.

There are two free spectaculars every year that should not be missed. On one of the last Saturday nights of July they perform a fireworks show over the lake that cannot be matched anywhere in the world. There is standing room only in the entire village. Traffic doesn’t move and the village only empties towards 3am the Sunday morning. The other spectacular is the F1 Powerboat competition held in May or June. Not to be missed.

On the Swiss National Day, August 1, Lugano and several other towns also offer spectacular fireworks shows. The view from Campione for the Lugano show is stunning. It is best from the communal beach. The beach restaurant offer on this day a dinner outside on the lawn by candle light for the best seats to the Lugano fireworks show!

Campione is 15 minutes from Lugano airport by car, 60 minutes from Milan Malpensa airport, and 90 minutes from Milan Linate airport.

Lugano airport is like having your own private airport! You never wait longer than a minute for your luggage to arrive. There is never a line of more than two people in front of you. You can arrive and check in 15 minutes before the flight leaves. It is clean and functional. The long term parking is an open air car park, and at times you might have to walk a good 500m to get from the car park to the airport.

One of the secrets of Campione is the freak Mediterranean type climate found only on the shores of Lake Lugano. Lake Lugano is about 300m above sea level. Campione’s white sand beach with the small grove of tropical palm trees is open from early May until somewhere in October. During this period the numerous swimming pools in and around Campione are also in operation.

The mountain and lake scenery is breathtaking. The sub-Alpine climate and year-round temperature is second to none. In fact, the surrounding area is a Swiss health resort region. The local weather is not nearly as cold as the rest of Switzerland. Seasonal changes are mild and winds light to moderate.

We find the wild mountain flowers of spring and summer, the spectacular splash of colour of autumn, and the ambience of winter quite charming in Campione.

We find the city of Lugano to be the most pleasant city in all Switzerland. We do most of our shopping here with the odd visits to the Italian markets in Como or Ponte Tresa.

To the ancient Roman mind, stone represented civilization; wood, barbarism. The Teutonic tribes, which invaded Italy in the Dark Ages were forest men and perhaps not taken seriously enough because of that. The word used for a foreigner is still forestiero – forest man – perhaps the root of the word foreigner? These invaders were scared by the magic world of stone and preferred to live in open country. This enabled the Latin spirit to survive within the stone walls of the cities, and to reassert itself during the Middle Ages in stone cathedral and palazzo, and to develop into the full marble splendour of the Renaissance.

It was during the Middle Ages that the art of working in stone seemed to originate from Campione d’Italia. Over the centuries, generations of Maestri Campionesi were commissioned to work as far away as Moscow. Their work can still be seen at numerous churches in Northern Italy, most notably the Duomo of Milan.

They were humble and devout. Most never even signed their work. They moved from place to place with their worldly possessions on their backs. Today, the proud emblem of Campione d’Italia is the snail! In honour of those Maestri Campionesi.

Back to the top!